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When curating a ranking of London’s best restaurants, one might foresee well-known high-end establishments. But, situated prominently among these culinary heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu situated in a distant corner of north London.

A Surprise Honour

The little Turkish eatery, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the 4th top restaurant in the metropolis by a respected gastronomic guide. This recognition has made the proprietors completely surprised.

“I am utterly surprised,” remarks a family member, referring to his parents’ relentless work that culminated in their humble place achieving such a high spot on a notable 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

The compact space, which used to be a simple cafe before its conversion into a popular destination, has kept much of its former feel. It accommodates just over 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking display, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate space,” says the owner.

The Star Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all about the food, and this establishment more than succeeds. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a tender texture.

The meat is then added into a large pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in slowly. When the savoury mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to absorb all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is wrapped neatly inside.

The wrap is typically consumed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a mighty burst of taste, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A leading food critic described this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, giving it a more intense, more aromatic and not overly sweet flavour.

Surpassing the Titans

Notably, this unassuming spot has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant full for less than £25, equivalent tasting menus at high-end establishments can cost many times that amount.

The Ethos of Heart

It is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an expensive city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I do not agree with that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is hospitality, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is echoed by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he was in a role of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London train at this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the traps of excess, and to reveal what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Story of Dedication

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not train at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am truly pleased of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to find their footing, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum would be really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a personal life but her friends would come here to support her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

A Accomplishment for the Culture

This restaurant’s accolade is bound to echo outside its own premises. “In my opinion numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the wider importance of this culinary honour.